September 2010
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Caffe Oggi

The Show And Hassle Is Coming To Town

Snap 1: time to com­bine the upper bowl with the lower one when bub­bles become medium size.

I had plans for what I was going to write here: brew­ing meth­ods 123, elab­o­ra­tion of the pros-and-cons of them, and ulti­mately, help­ing you find the solu­tion to your daily decent cup.

There are meth­ods that I think would be a good start­ing point because of their friend­li­ness: low-cost ini­tial invest­ment and full con­trol over the vari­ables fac­tor­ing in a cup of excellence.

It would be inter­est­ing to talk about them espe­cially since they seem exotic to many peo­ple here. At the same time, it’s kind of chal­leng­ing to explain every­thing since cof­fee lovers have never seen them in person.

For­tu­nately, before got my hands dirty, a show­room of these cof­fee brew­ing meth­ods is arriv­ing to let you take a peek at them and save some work for me. Blue Bot­tle Cof­fee is sched­uled to open today in Williams­burg, New York City. They stock­pile a hoard of 19-century-style cof­fee brew­ing gad­gets: “pour over” and “iced cof­fee drip­per” accord­ing to the pre­view of The New York Times. » CONTINUE READING

The Need To Be Precise

New York City is a fas­ci­nat­ing place in the way that it’s hyper-congested. How so? Walk­ing on the street, with all kinds of things pass­ing by, you actu­ally enter another world by pass­ing another block. Hence, every­thing is within your reach — as long as you know where to find it.

bongs on shelf, St Mark's Place in NYC

Bongs, bongs, bongs… and mini scale

Today, I am strolling on St. Mark’s Place look­ing for this “thing” to ele­vate my cof­fee pro­fes­sion. St. Mark’s Place is a busy street lined up with Japan­ese beer houses, restau­rants, sou­venir shops and tat­too shops, but not a cof­fee shop. (Puerto Rico Import­ing is beyond 2nd Ave which I don’t pass often, so that doesn’t count:) I come here for yak­i­tori and Japan­ese beer all the time. But today, I passed by all the restau­rants and headed to the tat­too shops… Yeah, if you want to name peo­ple Japan­ese, Goth or Punk by where they go, today I am a punk. But label­ing me won’t deter my deter­mi­na­tion to hunt down the “thing”: a mini scale.

I have seen a lot of baris­tas use a mini scale to weigh cof­fee grounds for brew­ing. No doubt, that’s a promis­ing scene no mat­ter how the cup ends like later. » CONTINUE READING

Glossary: Blend

The mix­ture of beans from dif­fer­ent cor­ners of the world in com­par­i­son with a straight or sin­gle ori­gin cof­fee, which is cof­fee from one region. Blend can be of the same roast or at dif­fer­ent roasts to cre­ate desired flavor.

His­tor­i­cally, blend orig­i­nated from the need to cre­ate var­i­ous “fla­vors.” Blend­ing beans was devel­oped in early cof­fee drink­ing his­tory to work around the lim­ited roast­ing knowl­edge and facil­ity in pre-industrialization. Blend is also impor­tant in com­pen­sat­ing each year’s crop vari­abil­ity to keep the fla­vor con­sis­tent. » CONTINUE READING

Glossary: Straight coffee

The beans of one coun­try or a region within it. See “sin­gle ori­gin.”

Glossary: Single origin

Cof­fee beans from one loca­tion, region or coun­try. It could be as spe­cific as to refer to a sin­gle farm, estate or co-op.

Cof­fee beans taste dif­fer­ent based on where they grow; the species of cof­fee tree, the types of soil, the cli­mate and alti­tude of the plan­ta­tion all make a dif­fer­ence. Though har­vest­ing skills, pro­cess­ing, and roast — all human fac­tors — effect the taste, it always comes down to nat­ural fac­tors when we try to eval­u­ate the indi­vid­ual char­ac­ter­is­tics of cof­fee beans. Hence, the coun­try name, plus the region within it, are quite enough to explain how the cof­fee should taste. » CONTINUE READING

VIA: Instant Coffee From Starbucks">VIA: Instant Coffee From Starbucks

The name says it all: “road” in Ital­ian; it’s the cof­fee you have in a rush. And, the more impor­tant thing is: it’s the cheap­est cof­fee you can get with “Star­bucks” in your cups. It, of course, hints it offers the qual­ity on par with their sig­na­ture brews. Or does it?

The only pack I have kept under my office keyboard

The pack I stashed under my keyboard.

Star­bucks unveiled VIA in Febu­rary. Said it’s been “devel­op­ment for 20 years.” Well, they must be very seri­ous about it. There’re some pos­i­tive reviews around. I’ve been curi­ous about it even I don’t have any expec­ta­tion for instant cof­fee at all. And, as of Sep­tem­ber 30th, it’s on sale nation­wide in Star­bucks stores.

I actu­ally got my sam­ple over the week­end but kept it till today. I think the office envi­ron­ment is a bet­ter place to repli­cate “the great cof­fee in an instant” expe­ri­ence. On the week­end, I’d rather fid­dle with my Hario drip­ping or siphon brew­ing sys­tem. » CONTINUE READING

The Courage To Pour In Water

I can't find the legendary flipping image... You just have to go with this one.

Nowhere to find the leg­endary flip­ping image. You just have to go with this one…

When you flip any­thing, you just have to have the courage of your con­vic­tions.” said Julia Child, played by Meryl Streep in the movie, Julie & Julia, right before giv­ing the pan­cake a flip on her TV show. This is an unthink­able clas­sic moment: is a celebrity chef hav­ing fear flip­ping a pan­cake just like most of us? It’s amaz­ing that Julia Child reveals the same fear just before drop­ping half the pan­cake on the cooker like we often do.It’s rem­i­nis­cent of the moment I poured water into the ground cof­fee in my Hario drip­ping glass for the first time: the uneven pre-moistening didn’t build an even cof­fee bed for hold­ing a steady flow, then pour­ing too slow, with over­flow­ing a big pos­si­bil­ity.… It’s daunt­ing to think how I was gonna screw up this pre­cious cof­fee, the leg­endary choco­late fla­vor, the flower fra­grance… » CONTINUE READING

Three Cups of Coffee

No pun intended here.

I’m not in Balti but Chelsea; I don’t need to use body lan­guage but my native lan­guage to talk to my com­pany; I’m here sav­ing no one but my dried-out olfac­tion and gus­ta­tion senses. I’m sit­ting in Cafe Grumpy.

Cafe Grumpy, Chelsea

Cafe Grumpy, my favorite cof­fee hide out.

Unlike other days here, today, Angie and Nikkie join me in this cof­fee hide out on Sat­ur­day after­noon. I’m super hyper about their com­pany  — not that they are nec­es­sar­ily adorable peo­ple, it’s their cof­fee choices — two extra cups to taste! With their gen­er­ous shar­ing (offer­ing?) of their cups, I could taste three dif­fer­ent cof­fees from three dif­fer­ent coun­tries in just a few min­utes. Usu­ally I come up here to fin­ish my healthy dose of daily tabloids in the time I fin­ished one cup as it cools, but today is a lit­tle spe­cial. » CONTINUE READING

Prologue

When I moved to New York six years ago, it was a chal­lenge to spot a cup of decent cof­fee in this cos­mopoli­tan city. Hard to believe, but cof­fee here is hope­lessly dull.

Now, here’s “Cof­fee: The New Wave”: espresso shops are open­ing every week, if not every day; cup­ping events are held on both sides of East River; sin­gle ori­gin beans are much talked about. ‘Sin­gle ori­gin’ refers to beans that are straight from one par­tic­u­lar estate, farm or co-op which are then roasted, brewed and enjoyed. What’s spe­cial about cof­fee from a sin­gle ori­gin? It’s the idea of ter­roir, which is bor­rowed from wine tast­ing. Ter­roir is the notion that topog­ra­phy, soil and cli­mate can make two brews taste dif­fer­ent, even if they are grown from the same species of cof­fee plant.

Notwith­stand­ing this hype about ‘sin­gle ori­gin,’ this wave seems dis­turbed by the rock of estab­lished brew­ing meth­ods and roast­ing inter­pre­ta­tion. Con­trary to ‘sin­gle ori­gin’ is the ‘blend’ which is the mix­ture of beans from dif­fer­ent ori­gins. ‘Blend’ beans have pre­vailed in the spe­cialty cof­fee mar­ket for a long time due to the nature of the ubiq­ui­tously applied espresso machine. After all, roast­ing, brew­ing and the appre­ci­a­tion of the cup are all inter­re­lated and des­ig­nated to meet cer­tain taste sen­sa­tion expec­ta­tions. Hence, darker roast­ing is nec­es­sary, the espresso machine is irre­place­able and the appre­ci­a­tion would be lim­ited. Call it The Trin­ity. To explore the most of what ‘sin­gle ori­gins’ has to offer, new roast­ing ideas are needed, brew­ing alter­na­tives must be found or invented, and taste sen­sa­tions could be more dar­ing. The Clover brew­ing sys­tem is one of the exam­ples com­ing in this cof­fee new wave.

There’re a lot more to be explored. The cof­fee new wave in New York is the con­se­quence of a series of ask­ing ques­tions. I feel lucky to be here, in the mid­dle of this ‘wave.’ I don’t know where it’s going, but I’d invite you to join me in this exploration.

Raise my cup, cheers~

Revised 2010.0224